My First MLF!

[KDgamergirl]

Hi All! Newbie here. I've been making wines for a little while now and got the Vinmetrica SC-50 MLF Analzyer as a Christmas gift. This is also my first go at MLF, so it's all still a learning process. Any info/advice anyone has (however general) would be helpful!

Details:
- 2 buckets of juice (Barolo and Valpolicella) completed AF, SG below 1.000
- racked to carboys, no added SO2
- inoculated both with WLP675 and Opti-Malo about 6 weeks ago
- have not diligently been stirring (didnt know this was a thing!) and the temps have been around 68F

Ran the MAC assay today and am getting results that seem like MLF hasn't really even started. I've wrapped the carboys in heat mats to warm them up; hopefully that helps. I'll also be stirring the lees up every few days from now on. Am I too late on this?

When the MLF Analyzer arrived, the reagents that should be stored in the freezer were out for about a week. They were still cool , but definitely not frozen anymore. I stuck them in the freezer as soon as I knew until they were used today. Are they bad and need to be replaced?

If this belongs in a different, forum, please lmk. TIA!

 

[cmason1957]

I hate to type this, but many folks have issues with that Wlp675 malolactic bacteria. The parameters for it are very finicky. I bet there was SO2 added to the juice buckets and that might be enough to keep it from working.

 

[KDgamergirl]

I hate to type this, but many folks have issues with that Wlp675 malolactic bacteria. The parameters for it are very finicky. I bet there was SO2 added to the juice buckets and that might be enough to keep it from working.

Is it too late to use another ML bacteria?

I can check the SO2 levels. I didn’t think of that, as I knew not to add any and didn’t.

 

[cmason1957]

I imagine your free so2 is low, and your bound so2 probably isn't terrible either (that's a harder one to test) just to high for the wlp type. I would purchase some other malolactic bacteria and try that. I like the Enoferm Alpha and Beta, and the Vp41. You probably have to order them online, not many brew shops carry any of them.

 

[Ajmassa]

Is it too late to use another ML bacteria?

I can check the SO2 levels. I didn’t think of that, as I knew not to add any and didn’t.

Nope. not too late. As long as you still haven’t added so2 then you good.

@cmason1957 gave you some sound advice. The smaller malo packs never seem to work for sh**. So many people with issues mention using either WLP675 or wyeast. Lots of variables with mlf that can trip it up. Site says WLP675 tolerant only to 10ppm free so2 <—the finicky part. You don’t even need to add so2 to hit that mark i bet either since some yeast will naturally produce it during fermentation.
Even though the other options aren’t priced for smaller quantities they are def the way to go as cmason said. VP-41, CH35, Enoferm Alpha, Beta—— all heavyweights with major tolerances to abv, so2, low ph & temps. My default is vp41. Most are sold in 2.5g packages for up to 66gal of wine. (i try to buy all my stuff together since Orders over $59 get free s&h)
But a good thing about MLB is you can’t add too much. You can safely split it all between the two wines. Along with opti-malo i also get Acti-malo, a nutrient activator to rehydrate the mlb. Every little bit helps. 50g Acti works with 2.5g mlb. In the future another option is co-inoculation— adding malo a day or so after yeast. The low abv environment helps the bacteria thrive and usually by the end of AF the mlf is also nearly complete.

So how do you like the SC-50? It seems hella confusing. Not sure i’d ever get to the point of not needing the instructions if i had it. Tho it’d be great to know the actual malic levels. The chromatography tests i use are more qualitative, only showing if the acid is present or not.
Some people can just confirm mlf by tasting too— or at least they claim they can. If those people weren’t liars i’d be impressed. (@heatherd ) I’ll put the glass down and stop drunk typing now.
oh and btw—- welcome to WMT!

 

[KDgamergirl]

Thanks @cmason1957 and @Ajmassa! I've heard good things about VP41 as well, so I will give that a try along with some acti-malo. The WLP675 was what my local brew shop had; I guess not too expensive of a lesson to learn lol

So how do you like the SC-50? It seems hella confusing. Not sure i’d ever get to the point of not needing the instructions if i had it. Tho it’d be great to know the actual malic levels. The chromatography tests i use are more qualitative, only showing if the acid is present or not.
Some people can just confirm mlf by tasting too— or at least they claim they can. If those people weren’t liars i’d be impressed. (@heatherd ) I’ll put the glass down and stop drunk typing now.
oh and btw—- welcome to WMT!

The SC50 is fun but a little scary - all the unfreezing/freezing of the reagents, mixing it all into solution, etc - I was definitely afraid I would screw it up! Vinmetrica's website How-To video does an awesome job of showing you exactly what to do so that the paper instructions are more of a reminder. The device is easy to use, the numbers simple to crunch. I looked at the paper kits and for only 2x the cost, I can do quantitative testing? Seemed like an easy call for a chemistry/data nerd like me!

Cheers!

 

[mainshipfred]

I have to chime in on the liquid MLBs and personally after numerous attempts they never worked. With regard to the SC50 I got a used one at a very good price but never used it. The cost of the chemicals and the complexity of the test just turned me away from it. I rely only on chromatography now even though it's not the most accurate measure. Good luck with your wine and welcome.

 

[heatherd]

Nope. not too late. As long as you still haven’t added so2 then you good.

@cmason1957 gave you some sound advice. The smaller malo packs never seem to work for sh**. So many people with issues mention using either WLP675 or wyeast. Lots of variables with mlf that can trip it up. Site says WLP675 tolerant only to 10ppm free so2 <—the finicky part. You don’t even need to add so2 to hit that mark i bet either since some yeast will naturally produce it during fermentation.
Even though the other options aren’t priced for smaller quantities they are def the way to go as cmason said. VP-41, CH35, Enoferm Alpha, Beta—— all heavyweights with major tolerances to abv, so2, low ph & temps. My default is vp41. Most are sold in 2.5g packages for up to 66gal of wine. (i try to buy all my stuff together since Orders over $59 get free s&h)
But a good thing about MLB is you can’t add too much. You can safely split it all between the two wines. Along with opti-malo i also get Acti-malo, a nutrient activator to rehydrate the mlb. Every little bit helps. 50g Acti works with 2.5g mlb. In the future another option is co-inoculation— adding malo a day or so after yeast. The low abv environment helps the bacteria thrive and usually by the end of AF the mlf is also nearly complete.

So how do you like the SC-50? It seems hella confusing. Not sure i’d ever get to the point of not needing the instructions if i had it. Tho it’d be great to know the actual malic levels. The chromatography tests i use are more qualitative, only showing if the acid is present or not.
Some people can just confirm mlf by tasting too— or at least they claim they can. If those people weren’t liars i’d be impressed. (@heatherd ) I’ll put the glass down and stop drunk typing now.
oh and btw—- welcome to WMT!

I can for sure tell it is not done.

 

[KDgamergirl]

UPDATE: Just got the VP41 in the mail with some Acti-Mal... rehydration and it seems like we are off to the races! Thank you all, wonderful people!

 

[Mario Dinis]

I know this is a bit late, but for the first time had problems with VP41 on a chilean syrah. It didn't work, had to give up and proceed to the next step.