Getting consistent clear beer

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Pumpkinman

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After trying a few different adjustments to the brewing process, I feel that I've finally been able to produce consistently clear beer, almost commercial quality, which isn't an easy task when bottling.

I make sure that my "hot break" and "cold break" are very "strong", I add 1 whirlfloc tablet per 6 gallon batch at 15 mins, followed by 1 vial of Clarity ferm in the fermenting bucket, clarity ferm helps to eliminate chill haze, as a bonus, it significantly reduces the gluten content in beers made with barley and wheat as well.
Before bottling, I cold crash the beer at approx 28° and add gelatin (plain gelatin such as Knoxx unflavored gelatin), let sit for 2 days after adding the gelatin then, rack off into the bottling bucket, and Voila', crystal clear beer!

The following are pics of the Brown Shugga, an amber beer so clear that you can read the hydrometer submerged in the beer with no problem! One point I want to add is that this beer is a very heavy, malty beer with enough sweetness to balance the malt and the 6 oz of hops added to this brew!

If I want to remove the majority of the sediment found in most every bottle of craft beer (at least home brews), I'll filter with the All in One pump, using a 1 micron filter, then add 1 gram of EC-1118,(hydrated) to the bottling bucket, the yeast has a relatively neutral flavor and aroma contribution therefore it will not affect your brew.

This techniques was suggested on our sister site Home brew talk, when I was concerned about post that I had read suggesting that after lagering an Oktoberfest for 8 weeks caused the yeast to become inactive resulting in little or no carbonation.
I've used this "tweak" several times with great results!!

A beer treated with 1 gram (per 5-6 gal batch) will not produce bottle bombs either! a great little tip!

Tom

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Looks good! I helped a buddy brew a batch of beer this weekend so I could decide if I wanted to do it myself. Well, needless to say, I am starting work on my mash tun and am planning to order a brew kettle and burner real soon. Had a good time and some great beers. Do all home brews have a little sediment in the bottom of the bottle after carbonating in the bottle?


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Yes, its a product of carbonation. The only way to avoid that is by force carbonating in a keg and then bottling at cooler temp to avoid carbonation loss. Settlement is a by product of fermentation which is how carbonation is made.
 
Maybe if you use the carb drops this doesnt happen now that I think of it but Ive never done it that way.
 
That's some nice clear looking Brew Tom!
Thanks for the tips. I find my beers very clear but a few had chill haze. These were all bag o' beer kits though and not all grain.
My latest beer a brown ale (partial mash) is crystal clear with no whirlfloc or gelatin. I did cold crash for a week however!

The 2 all grain batches on the go right now received a whirlfloc addition at 15 min.
 
Derek,
I've been using an 8 gallon Bayou classic brew kettle since day one, it is priced right, and if you get the one without the thermometer, just the ball valve you will save yourself a bunch of cash, you can always purchase a kettle thermometer from one of our sponsors. I converted a 10 gallon Igloo industrial cooler, once you buy the bulk head/ball valve, you'll have it up and ready in mins, I personally prefer a stainless false bottom to the stainless steel braid taken from a faucet supply line, it works much better in my opinion.

AAron,
Cold crashing is the way to go!
 
I've been going back and forth on the 10 gal Bayou Classic or the 8 gal. I haven't pulled the trigger yet. Will the 10 gal be worth the extra $$ in the long run? The only thing I could think of was less chance of boil over and possible larger batches but I'm still not sure.


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Go with the ten gallon. Don't get me the wrong. the 8 gal will work.... barely!
When you start your boil there is 7 gallons or so of wort for a 5.5 gal batch. There will be boil overs!!!
 

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