Fall Wine Plans! A Storm is brewing....

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seth8530

The Atomic Wine Maker
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My philosophy on many things in life is plan the work and work the plan. This is why I am putting online my plans for my fall 2013 juice order and fermentation plans.

I plan on ordering 12 gallons of chardonnay juice and 12 gallons of pinot noir juice as well as some skins or a lug of grapes for the pinot to give it better colour and flavour. Half of the batch will be fermented hot, the other half will be fermented cold.

Pinot Noir

My plan for my pinot noir is to go for a spicy mineraly wine. To accomplish this I plan on tailoring the fermentation kinetics and oak selection to try and wing the flavour profile in this direction. I plan on fermenting half the batch at close to 20C and the other half close to 30 C as per the minimum and maximum recommended fermentation temperatures for the selected yeast.

Yeast:

Enoferm AMH. Im hoping that this yeast will help develop some of that spicy character that I am after. Plus the ML compatibility is a great plus that will hopefully let me us MLF to help guide the flavour profile as well.

Originating from the Geisenheim Research Institute, Enoferm AMH™ is a favorite for making Riesling, Pinot
noir and Zinfandel. It is considered a color-friendly yeast that enhances spicy (clove, nutmeg) and fruit flavors
and aromas while adding positive, smooth mouthfeel to the overall complexity. AMH™ has a long lag phase
and a slow to medium fermentation rate. Therefore, a well-managed nutrient program during rehydration and
fermentation is essential. Good ferment domination is obtained with AMH™ if the culture is allowed to develop
in about 10% of the total must volume for 8 hours before final inoculation. Very malolactic bacteria compatible.
It is cassified as a Saccharomyces kudriavzevii

Fermentation temp range 20-30C, slow fermenter, good to 15% abv, medium nitrogen needs, and low SO2 production. I will re hydrate the yeast with GO-ferm protect and 10% must.

MLF Bacteria
Lalvin Elios 1.

I plan on using it in the Pinot because of its spice contribution and its ability to work in tough conditions. I plan on co-inoculating this with the yeast. I will add the ML nutrient after AF is complete to ensure that the yeast does not decide to eat the ML bacteria food.

For spice contribution and integration of highly ripened fruit
Lalvin Elios 1® was isolated by the Institut Coopératif du Vin (ICV) in Montpellier, France, from spontaneous
malolactic fermentations showing very good fermentation performance, as well as positive sensory profiles. The
ICV evaluated and compared Lalvin Elios 1® to several other Oenococcus oeni isolates over several years in their
research winery and pilot plant. Lalvin Elios 1® consistently demonstrated good fermentation kinetics under such
difficult MLF conditions as high alcohol (15.5%). This malolactic bacteria culture enhances the perception of
overall tannin intensity, while avoiding green and vegetative character development. Available only in MBR form.


ML Nutrient

Opti’Malo PLUS

I will add this in after fermentation is complete to insure that the yeast will not use this nutrient up instead of the ML bacteria.

Opti’Malo PLUS™ was formulated to help support MLF in difficult wines. Add Opti’Malo PLUS™ directly to the
wine before inoculating with the malolactic bacteria culture. Do not use Opti’Malo PLUS™ during bacteria
rehydration. Opti’Malo PLUS™ is a unique blend of specific inactive yeasts rich in amino acids, mineral cofactors,
vitamins and polysaccharides. These inactive yeasts provide more surface area to help keep bacteria in
suspension, and to help absorb potential malolactic bacteria inhibitors.
Dosage recommendation: Add 20 g/hL (1.6 lb/1000 gal) Opti’Malo PLUS™ to a small amount of water or wine
and then add directly to the wine anytime from 48 hours prior to or up until the same time as the malolactic
bacteria culture addition.

Yest Ghost

I plan on using Booster Rouge at the end of fermentation. I plan on using it because this year has been a hot summer for the grapes which seems to work well with Boster Rouge. Also, Booster Rouge claims to compliment short maceration times well which should help me out considering that I will be using a relatively small amount of grape skins in my fermentation.

Booster Rouge® originates from a specific natural wine yeast isolated and selected by the ICV. The yeast
macromolecules in Booster Rouge® interact with red wine polyphenols resulting in a positive influence on the
colloidal balance of the wine. Especially when used in red must sourced from hot climates, Booster Rouge®
wines are perceived as having higher fore-mouth volume and smoother mid-palate tannic intensity, as well
as fresher aromatic sensations.
Booster Rouge® compliments short maceration premium reds fermented with Lalvin ICV GRE™ for smooth
mid-palate intensity and fresh varietal aromas, while avoiding sensations of aggressive and drying tannins.
In ultra-premium reds from balanced ripe mature grapes, Booster Rouge® shows good synergy with Lalvin ICV
D80® and Lalvin ICV D21™ for enhancing licorice aromas and smooth mid-palate intensity. Booster Rouge®
may also be added towards the end of fermentation to contribute fore-mouth volume, smoother mid-palate
tannin intensity and help with alcohol integration.
Dosage recommendation: Add Booster Rouge® to the must at 227 g/ton (0.5 lb/ton) or 30 g/hL (2.4
lb/1000 gal) towards the end of fermentation.


Yeast Nutrient

This in my opinion will the the crown on the kings head for my plan. I plan on using Fermaid O because it is an organic amino acid nitrogen source. The advantage of using this kind of nitrogen is that you get a much more level fermentation with less spikes in activity, lower sulfur production, and better aromatics. Plus, organic nitrogen can be used by the yeast later on in the fermentation that DAP can. I plan on assuming that the yeast will need 350 mg/L YAN ( I have read studies that show after 270 mg/L for medium nitrogen need yeast their is little added benefit) and I will also assume that my must has 100 mg/L YAN. This is pretty conservative because 100 mg/L YAN seems to be on the low end for grape must but I have heard of some having up to 200 mg/L.

I plan on adding in 250 mg/L of YAN. This equates to 6.25 grams of Fermaid O per liter. After AF starts I will start adding Fermaid O in 6 additions. So once at end of lag and then all the way up to the 2/3 sugar break every 10% of the way through the fermentation.

I got my Fermaid O to YAN conversion from an email from a Scott labs person as well as a white paper. They both say that .3 grams per liter Fermaid O adds 12 mg/L YAN



Fermaid O™ is the latest nutrient developed by our winemaking nutrient research team headed by Dr. Anne
Ortiz-Julien. Fermaid O is a blend of inactivated yeast fractions rich in organic nitrogen. Fermaid O™ does not
contain added ammonia salts (DAP) or micronutrients. The importance of organic nitrogen from yeasts is well
known as a highly efficient nutrient source for wine yeasts, especially when compared to inorganic nitrogen
from DAP. In addition, Fermaid O™ consistently produces lower heat of fermentation and lower levels of
negative sulfur compounds, compared with DAP. With its organic nitrogen, Fermaid O™ can help winemakers
achieve steady fermentations, while limiting temperature peaks. When inorganic nitrogen (DAP) additions are
NOT desired, the use of Go-Ferm® or GO-FERM PROTECT evolution ® and Fermaid O™ is recommended. With
this combination, Go-Ferm® or GO-FERM PROTECT evolution ® provides needed micronutrients during yeast
rehydration, and Fermaid O (when added at 1/3 sugar depletion) supplies critical nutrients to help the yeast
avoid stressed conditions. Note: In low nutrient situations, yeast available nitrogen may be insufficient to
avoid fermentation problems. Refer to page 40 for dosage recommendations.

Oak

I plan on using 3 oz of Hungarian oak cubes per 6 gallons in the pinot noir. I am using a medium toast level because I am not after vanilla flavours but more of the pepper and leather notes that Hungarian oak is known to give. I would use a spiral but I have been unable to find any of those for Hungarian.

Re-hydration Nutrient

Go ferm Protect as a dosage of 7 grams per packet of yeast re-hydrated. The advantage of using a re hydration nutrient goes further than just making sure the yeast wakes up ready to eat sugar. It also helps develop sterols which help protect yeast from alcohol, PH and temperature swings. This along with the nutrients inside of the re hydration nutrient helps ensure that the fermentation will go smooth all the way through, not just on the onset.

GO-FERM PROTECT evolution ® optimizes the micronutrient bioavailability of Go-Ferm with the added benefit
of survival factor protection through the NATSTEP® process. These survival factors include specific sterols and
polyunsaturated fatty acids that strengthen the yeast membrane during rehydration, making it more resistant
to fermentation stress. GO-FERM PROTECT evolution ® is used in the yeast rehydration water to create a
suspension of micronutrients and survival factors that are bioavailable for selected yeasts. GO-FERM PROTECT
evolution ® is recommended in place of Go-Ferm® for very difficult fermentation conditions, such as:
1. High maturity conditions (>25° Brix) to protect yeast against osmotic shock, helping avoid high
VA production during fermentation.
2. High potential alcohol conditions to protect yeast against alcohol toxicity, helping avoid sluggish
fermentation finishes.
3. Over clarified juices to help supply key yeast survival factors.
4. Restarting stuck fermentations to protect and condition the “rescue yeast” against high alcohol
conditions.
5. When oxygen additions are not possible during fermentation.
Dosage recommendations: Use 30 g/hL (2.4 lb/1000 gal) of GO-FERM PROTECT evolution ® to stimulate and
protect the rehydrating yeast.
Note: This recommendation is based on a yeast inoculum of 25 g/hL (2 lb/1000 gal). If using more or less
yeast, respect a ratio of 1 part yeast:1.25 parts GO-FERM PROTECT evolution ®


Chardonnay

The over all plan on this one is to create a wine that will have a creamy taste from MLF along with a nice woody structure to provide volume and depth with fruit notes to give a sense of freshness to the wine. To do this, I plan on utilizing many of the same tricks from the Pinot Noir.

Yeast:
D47.. Good ol D47 I plan on using D47 because it is known for full bodied silky mouthfeel chard fermentation. Plus the fact that when the wine is left on the lees that it can create spicy aromas with tropical and citrus notes seems promising. If it makes jam like aromas... all the better. I plan on fermenting half at close to 15C and the other half near 28C

Lalvin ICV D47™ is a Côtes du Rhône isolate from Suze-la-Rousse for the production of full-bodied
barrel fermented Chardonnay and other white varietals. When left on lees, ripe spicy aromas with
tropical and citrus notes are developed. ICV D47™ is a high polysaccharide producer known for its accentuated
fruit and great volume.
On most white grape varieties, this yeast elaborates wines with ripe stable fruits or jam-like aromas. Thanks
to these aromas, the cuvées fermented with the ICV D47™ are a good source of complexity in the blends.
Moreover, ICV D47™ contributes to the wine’s silkiness and persistence. Excellent results are obtained for
the production of top-of-the-range Chardonnay fermented in barrels, especially when blended with Lalvin ICV
D21® fermented Chardonnays.

MLF Bacteria
Lalvin Elios 1.

I plan on using the same ML bacteria because frankly 1 gram of this stuff cost around 30 bucks and is enough for 60 gallons. Also, its characters seemed to match pretty well with what I have in mind for the chard considering it is supposed to give nice ripened fruit notes. I plan on co-inoculating this with the yeast. Perhaps waiting a day or 2 after AF starts to get let the So2 drop a bit from the K-meta addition.



ML Nutrient

Opti’Malo PLUS Same story as with the Pinot Noir

I will add this in after fermentation is complete to insure that the yeast will not use this nutrient up instead of the ML bacteria.


Yeast Ghost

Opti-White

I plan on adding the Opti-White in two additions. Once at the beginning to try and avoid oxidation issues and to help protect colour and aromatic freshness. Supposedly it will bring roundness and smoothness to the wine which goes along with my idea of creating a full bodied chard. I plan on two additions. One before fermentation, and one at the 2/3 sugar break as per the dosage recommended.

Opti-White® is a specific inactivated yeast with high antioxidant properties. Its application in white wines is
patent pending. Using Opti-White® on the juice at the beginning of fermentation results in smoothness and
greater aromatic complexity in white wines. As its unique properties protect against oxidation of phenols and
aromas, Opti-White® contributes to better color preservation and the aromatic freshness of white wines. Yeast
cell wall components from Opti-White® will be solubilized during fermentation and aging. These polysaccharides
will have a very positive impact, bringing more roundness and smoothness to the wine. Their action will
enhance the benefits of autolysis following alcoholic fermentation.
Dosage recommendations: Add Opti-White® to the juice at 30-50 g/hL (2.4-4 lb/1000 gal) for smoothness,
antioxidative color protection and aromatic freshness. Add Opti-White® towards the end of fermentation at
20-30 g/hL (1.6-2.4 lb/1000 gal) for smoothness and better integration of wood and alcohol.

Yeast Nutrient

I plan on following the same plan as with the Pinot Nior. The only thing I might change is that if I end up getting a good YAN estimate of my juice I might adjust my dosing a bit. Im hoping this is where the use of Fermaid O will shine the most due to the aromatic preservation.

Oak

I plan on using medium toasted french oak spirals. I am hoping to get some nice structure from the oak as well as these ellsusive sounding burn cream flavours. I do not want to go to overboard with the toast because I want the wines natural flavours to come through really well, but I feel like it will certainly need some oak.

Re-hydration Nutrient

Go ferm Protect as a dosage of 7 grams per packet of yeast re-hydrated. Same story as above.


Well that is the over all plan. Once these guys have aged for a year and half I will consider blending or leaving them separate just to highlight the differences in fermentation temperature. I am opting not to do a super hot fermentation for the pinot noir because I do not want to stress the yeast. This fermentation is all about making the yeast as happy as possible. Instead to get maximum colour extraction from the grapes I will stir them 2 or 3 times a day to make sure that extraction is going well. I plan on keeping the cold fermenters cold by tossing in frozen water bottles and I will keep the warm guys warm by keeping them in closets with heaters inside them if needed.


Any thoughts of comments? Questions? Snide remarks? Advice? This will be my first Euro style wine fermentation so I am excited. I guess the only thing I have not talked about is which region should I get my juice from... Any available advice on that would be great!
 
You might want to rethink the co-fermentation of the yeast and the MLB. It's always wise to ferment first, THEN introduce the MLB. Pinot Noir needs a LOT of time to age too. So be real patient with it even if you think the flavor profile you're trying to create will make it more flavorful. Typically, we bulk age it a year, then bottle and allow it to age to at least its second year before we start drinking it. It's even better at the 3rd year, producing chocolate notes.

Have you ever made fruit style Chard? Meaning no MLF. There's no doubt that an MLF'd Chard is really good, but I also really favor a good fruit style Chard too. Be sure you get very good juice. One year, we got some from Chile and it tasted like water. The Chard from Calif is far better. Sometimes, the place selling the juice will have samples of the juice so you can taste it before you buy it---that is a good way to get excellent juice.
 
I always bulk age my pinot for at least two years, and let rest in the bottle for another year (pulling a bottle every so ofter to taste it).

Pinot can be a REAL b**ch. If seems to me to be one of thaose wines that is just unforgiving. Its very delicate flavor is simply spectacular when it all goes right, but undrinkable when the slightest thing goes wrong.

My advice is this. Make two different reds. I always have two reds to choose from (especially when I make pinot). My favorite is Petit Sarah. This is a grape that is VERY forgiving of even major faults.

With two reds, you can hedge your bets.
 
Seth nice plan. I would go with a lug for each 6 gallons of pinot. I did this with my Chilean pinot noir this spring. You will be very pleased.
 
I always bulk age my pinot for at least two years, and let rest in the bottle for another year (pulling a bottle every so ofter to taste it).

Pinot can be a REAL b**ch. If seems to me to be one of thaose wines that is just unforgiving. Its very delicate flavor is simply spectacular when it all goes right, but undrinkable when the slightest thing goes wrong.

My advice is this. Make two different reds. I always have two reds to choose from (especially when I make pinot). My favorite is Petit Sarah. This is a grape that is VERY forgiving of even major faults.

With two reds, you can hedge your bets.

Thanks for the advice, I will be sure to be careful with it. however, I plan on hedging my bets in a way by also making a chard. That way, I still have a wine to enjoy making even if the pinot fails. Anyways, if I mess it up I will consider it a lesson learned. :) I fell in love with pinot noir after I tried this really earthy minearly one.. and I just loved it. That is kind of what I am shooting for.

You might want to rethink the co-fermentation of the yeast and the MLB. It's always wise to ferment first, THEN introduce the MLB. Pinot Noir needs a LOT of time to age too. So be real patient with it even if you think the flavor profile you're trying to create will make it more flavorful. Typically, we bulk age it a year, then bottle and allow it to age to at least its second year before we start drinking it. It's even better at the 3rd year, producing chocolate notes.

Have you ever made fruit style Chard? Meaning no MLF. There's no doubt that an MLF'd Chard is really good, but I also really favor a good fruit style Chard too. Be sure you get very good juice. One year, we got some from Chile and it tasted like water. The Chard from Calif is far better. Sometimes, the place selling the juice will have samples of the juice so you can taste it before you buy it---that is a good way to get excellent juice.

Ya know, I have been doing some reading on it and I have found some really interesting articles that seem to really favour co-inoculation because it allows the MLB to get slowly acclimated to the environment and rising alcohol that they will be fermenting in. However, I do agree I have heard both sides of the argument.

Yeah, I plan on letting this guy sit for a couple of years. That is part of the reason why I am doing 12 gallons.

As far as the chard goes, I have never made one before. I got inspired to make one when I tried out 2009 vintage Ramey Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)
http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1155464

I plan on doing MLF not only for flavor but also for stability, since sometimes you have to worry about the wine doing MLF on its own if you do not put it through it.. However, I am open to suggestions. This being my first chard and pinot I am kind of wanting to do things the more standard way.. However, can you recommend me a good chard that is really strong on the fruit notes?


Seth nice plan. I would go with a lug for each 6 gallons of pinot. I did this with my Chilean pinot noir this spring. You will be very pleased.

Shawn, thanks and you will be pleased to hear that I plan on buying grapes for both of these wines now. Hopefully this will lead to a better product. I heard it takes about 13 lbs of grapes per gallon.. Does that sound correct?
 
More like 18. It takes about 85 -90 lbs of grapes to make 5 gallons of juice. I added 3 lugs that were 18 lbs each to 18 gallons of Pinot Noir. This enhanced the colour, body and aroma. You will be amazed at the difference. Cheers!
 
Seth,

A lot of WA Chardonnays go without MLF and oak is hit-or-miss. The WA climate makes for brighter acid (hot days, cool nights; 40-50F differene between day- and night-time) and a fruitier profile where sometimes Cali (hot days, hot nights; no cold nights to preserve the acidity) can bake the fruitiness right out of the fruit - which is why Cali Chard's are the ones primarily oaked and MLF'd... Just a general consensus, there's exceptions to every rule.

I like the plan, overall.
Couple things;

With the Opti-White... Instead of doing a 2-part Opti-White addition, you could consider 1 addition of Opti-White and 1 addition of Booster Blanc.. They're similiar, but different. Just a thought.

Did I skip over Opti-Red on Pinot? Or did you choose to skip it? Any reason?

Have you considered additional tannins for either batch? Something like FT Blanc/Rouge (both have a 'Soft' version as well).. If you can really let these sit for a few years (stash your Port with these btw), then that time would let these additional tannins, shine.

I'm excited to see your reaction to a Fermaid-O only fermentation. I've been doing it for some time now, and I'm sure you'll see a difference.
 
More like 18. It takes about 85 -90 lbs of grapes to make 5 gallons of juice. I added 3 lugs that were 18 lbs each to 18 gallons of Pinot Noir. This enhanced the colour, body and aroma. You will be amazed at the difference. Cheers!

I think your weights are a little high. I find that 2 lugs (more times than not) will fill a carboy. A lug is usually either 36 or 42 pounds, so 72 to 84 pounds should do ya.

I, However, agree with you that you should go with 3 lugs for a 5 gallon batch. You need top off after racking. 3 lugs should fill your carboy and also provide close to 2 gallons of top off.
 
Thanks for the advice, I will be sure to be careful with it. however, I plan on hedging my bets in a way by also making a chard. That way, I still have a wine to enjoy making even if the pinot fails. Anyways, if I mess it up I will consider it a lesson learned. :) I fell in love with pinot noir after I tried this really earthy minearly one.. and I just loved it. That is kind of what I am shooting for.
Seth: I agree. A good pinot is amazing. I made one in 2008 that is still a legend.
 
Wow, this sure sounds like this might be bizarrely expensive. How much did you get your grapes for?


It's cheaper than buying a high end kit. I did two batches of Chilean wine this spring and paid ~$52 for each bucket, plus $28 for each 18lb lug of grapes. Add in yeast, MLB, nutrients, etc and I'm still only at $100 per 6 gallon batch, and I have extra for topping up/sampling. Obviously, the jury is still out on these wines, but I have high expectations.
 
Seth,

A lot of WA Chardonnays go without MLF and oak is hit-or-miss. The WA climate makes for brighter acid (hot days, cool nights; 40-50F differene between day- and night-time) and a fruitier profile where sometimes Cali (hot days, hot nights; no cold nights to preserve the acidity) can bake the fruitiness right out of the fruit - which is why Cali Chard's are the ones primarily oaked and MLF'd... Just a general consensus, there's exceptions to every rule.

I like the plan, overall.
Couple things;

With the Opti-White... Instead of doing a 2-part Opti-White addition, you could consider 1 addition of Opti-White and 1 addition of Booster Blanc.. They're similiar, but different. Just a thought.

Did I skip over Opti-Red on Pinot? Or did you choose to skip it? Any reason?

Have you considered additional tannins for either batch? Something like FT Blanc/Rouge (both have a 'Soft' version as well).. If you can really let these sit for a few years (stash your Port with these btw), then that time would let these additional tannins, shine.

I'm excited to see your reaction to a Fermaid-O only fermentation. I've been doing it for some time now, and I'm sure you'll see a difference.



Booter Rouge and Opti-Red are both inactivated yeast products. Here read the description and compare them. I am open to suggestions. The original reason why I chose Rouge was because it was supposed to reduce astringent tannins. and my main reason for choosing it was because

"Especially when used in red must sourced from hot climates, Booster Roug
wines are perceived as having higher fore-mouth volume and smoother mid-palate tannic intensity, as wellas fresher aromatic sensations." I decided that kind of matched up with the current cali season because they are going thrugh a heat wave right now.

For higher and smoother tannin intensity in red wines
Booster Rouge® originates from a specific natural wine yeast isolated and selected by the ICV. The yeast
macromolecules in Booster Rouge® interact with red wine polyphenols resulting in a positive influence on the
colloidal balance of the wine. Especially when used in red must sourced from hot climates, Booster Rouge®
wines are perceived as having higher fore-mouth volume and smoother mid-palate tannic intensity, as well
as fresher aromatic sensations.
Booster Rouge® compliments short maceration premium reds fermented with Lalvin ICV GRE™ for smooth
mid-palate intensity and fresh varietal aromas, while avoiding sensations of aggressive and drying tannins.
In ultra-premium reds from balanced ripe mature grapes, Booster Rouge® shows good synergy with Lalvin ICV
D80® and Lalvin ICV D21™ for enhancing licorice aromas and smooth mid-palate intensity. Booster Rouge®
may also be added towards the end of fermentation to contribute fore-mouth volume, smoother mid-palate
tannin intensity and help with alcohol integration.
Dosage recommendation: Add Booster Rouge® to the must at 227 g/ton (0.5 lb/ton) or 30 g/hL (2.4
lb/1000 gal) towards the end of fermentation.

VS
For rounded and smooth tannin red wines
Opti-Red® is a unique natural yeast preparation that undergoes a specific refining process resulting in a high
level of polyphenol-reactive yeast cell wall polysaccharides. Opti-Red® is used at the beginning of red wine
fermentations to obtain fuller bodied, more color stable, smooth palate wines.
Using Opti-Red® in the must provides early polysaccharide availability for the complexing with polyphenols
as soon as they are released and diffused. This early complexing results in smoother red wines with more
stable color, rounder mouthfeel and better harsh or green tannin integration. Opti-Red® can be used alone or
in conjunction with enological macerating enzymes such as Lallzyme EX™. Using Opti-Red® towards the end
of fermentation allows the winemaker to shape harsh polyphenols into smoother more approachable tannins.
Dosage recommendation: Add Opti-Red® to the must at 227 g/ton (0.5 lb/ton) or 30 g/hL (2.4 lb/1000 gal)
towards the end of fermentation.

So which one do you think would do better under the circumstances? I am open to suggestions.

I have not considered the addition of extra tannins because I plan on fermenting on the skins as well as a few whole clusters for the pinot noir. I am hoping that will give me the tannins I want without over doing it. Plus the use of oak should provide all the tannins I need.


"ith the Opti-White... Instead of doing a 2-part Opti-White addition, you could consider 1 addition of Opti-White and 1 addition of Booster Blanc.. They're similiar, but different. Just a thought."

Why do you recommend doing this? BTW I am pulling all this information from their NA 2013 catolouge.

As far as the oak goes on the chard I plan on watching it very carefully. I plan on getting some cali chard grapes because I want to go with a more mellow full bodied creme flavor approach instead of the ripe and fruity and acidic style if that makes any sense at all to you. Thoughts?

And oh yeah, you can bet the farm that I am excited about using fermaid O. One thing I have considered doing is research what vitamins go into a wine must, and adding those into a mead must and then using fermaid O as the sole nutrient. Something to think about eh?
 
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It's cheaper than buying a high end kit. I did two batches of Chilean wine this spring and paid ~$52 for each bucket, plus $28 for each 18lb lug of grapes. Add in yeast, MLB, nutrients, etc and I'm still only at $100 per 6 gallon batch, and I have extra for topping up/sampling. Obviously, the jury is still out on these wines, but I have high expectations.

Hmm, that is interesting.. I really hope that this falls grapes will be a little bit cheaper than that... Hopefully it will be cheaper to use just grapes instead of using a grape and juice mixture.
 
What I was getting at, was not to 'choose one' but to 'use both'
Either-or for the beginning, and the opposite for the end.

From your quotes:

In the beginning;

Booster Rouge
Especially when used in red must sourced from hot climates, Booster Rouge® wines are perceived as having higher fore-mouth volume and smoother mid-palate tannic intensity, as well as fresher aromatic sensations.

Opti-Red
Using Opti-Red® in the must provides early polysaccharide availability for the complexing with polyphenols as soon as they are released and diffused. This early complexing results in smoother red wines with more stable color, rounder mouthfeel and better harsh or green tannin integration.


Or at the end;

Booster Rouge
Booster Rouge® may also be added towards the end of fermentation to contribute fore-mouth volume, smoother mid-palate tannin intensity and help with alcohol integration.

Opti-Red
Using Opti-Red® towards the end of fermentation allows the winemaker to shape harsh polyphenols into smoother more approachable tannins.


So given these quotes, I'd be leaning towards Opti-Red in the must/beginning & Booster Rouge at the end..

Opti-Red; beginning
smoother red wines
more stable color
rounder mouthfeel
better harsh or green tannin integration

+

Booster Rouge; ending
fore-mouth volume
smoother mid-palate tannin intensity
alcohol integration.


Although when I use both, I stay towards the lower side of the dosage recommendations, because I know I'm using both and while they somewhat-overlap, they bring different attributes to the party.. I want all the attributes without overdoing the overlapping.. If that makes sense..

It's the same thought process for white wines, and if you want the "more mellow full bodied creme flavor approach instead of the ripe and fruity and acidic style", which makes perfect sense to me, then so does the double-whammy of using both Booster Blanc & Opti-White... The combo will bring the full body, it'll bring in some minerality, it'll prop up the finish, while stabilizing the color..

I do it for the "Best of both worlds" concept, basically... When done right, why not do it? :)
 
Now that is an interesting idea. I will need to discuss that with my GF lol, she is the copilot so I will need to run it by her.. But that is a rather interesting idea. However, the opti red followed by rouge at the end of fermentation sounds really promising....

BTW where are you getting the milerality from combining Booster blanc and opti white?
 
I think your weights are a little high. I find that 2 lugs (more times than not) will fill a carboy. A lug is usually either 36 or 42 pounds, so 72 to 84 pounds should do ya.

I, However, agree with you that you should go with 3 lugs for a 5 gallon batch. You need top off after racking. 3 lugs should fill your carboy and also provide close to 2 gallons of top off.

Hmm, so I plan on doing around 12 gallons so 5-6 lugs might be able to get me... depending on how I press..

Thanks for the advice, I will be sure to be careful with it. however, I plan on hedging my bets in a way by also making a chard. That way, I still have a wine to enjoy making even if the pinot fails. Anyways, if I mess it up I will consider it a lesson learned. :) I fell in love with pinot noir after I tried this really earthy minearly one.. and I just loved it. That is kind of what I am shooting for.
Seth: I agree. A good pinot is amazing. I made one in 2008 that is still a legend.

Yeah, here is hoping to a good pinot noir... BTW, you have any recommendations for me to try out?
 
BTW where are you getting the milerality from combining Booster blanc and opti white?

My bad... Thats the FT Blanc Soft (tannin), I was remembering.. Not Opti-White or Booster Blanc

Opti-WHITE® is certified organic by OMRI. Lallemand introduced this natural yeast derivative nutrient for use in white wine production after an extensive three-year research program. When added to the juice at the onset of fermentation, Opti-WHITE enhances smoothness, helps avoid browning from oxidation and protects fresh aromas during aging. Opti-WHITE is made using a specific production process that results in a yeast de*rivative rich in polysaccharides and high in anti-oxidant peptides (glutathione). These anti-oxidative properties work synergistically with SO2 allowing the winemaker to potentially lower the SO2 dosage. Opti-WHITE may also be added in the last stages of alcoholic fermentation to help bring out flavor profiles often associated with aging on lees.

Booster Blanc® is a yeast derivative nutrient from Lal*lemand. It was developed from an ICV strain for whites and rosés. Booster Blanc smooths mid-palate intensity and fresh varietal fruit aromas while diminishing bitterness, vegetal and chemical perceptions. It can help maintain freshness and aroma stability in wines that go through MLF. When used at the beginning of fermenta*tion, it can be helpful in lowering the production of off-sulfur compounds (notably in botrytised grapes). Booster Blanc can be added toward the end of fermenta*tion to help reveal muted aromatics. To help decrease the perception of woody aromas, add before aging in new barrels. Booster Blanc greatly complements premium whites or rosés from mature grapes that are fermented with ICV D21 and ICV GRE.


Just breaking these down so you and anyone who checks this thread can see the other side of the coin (red vs white)

Beginning;

Opti-White
When added to the juice at the onset of fermentation, Opti-WHITE enhances smoothness, helps avoid browning from oxidation and protects fresh aromas during aging.

Booster Blanc
Booster Blanc smooths mid-palate intensity and fresh varietal fruit aromas while diminishing bitterness, vegetal and chemical perceptions.

When used at the beginning of fermenta*tion, it can be helpful in lowering the production of off-sulfur compounds (notably in botrytised grapes).


Ending;

Opti-White
Opti-WHITE may also be added in the last stages of alcoholic fermentation to help bring out flavor profiles often associated with aging on lees.

Booster Blanc
It can help maintain freshness and aroma stability in wines that go through MLF.

Booster Blanc can be added toward the end of fermenta*tion to help reveal muted aromatics. To help decrease the perception of woody aromas, add before aging in new barrels.


Opti-White beginning + Booster Blanc ending:

Opti-White;
enhances smoothness
avoid browning from oxidation
protects fresh aromas during aging

+

Booster Blanc;
maintain freshness and aroma stability in wines that go through MLF.
reveal muted aromatics
decrease the perception of woody aromas


It seems like my personal notes offer up more that these all do (Opti-White/-Red & Booster Blanc/Rouge) than these two pages (sources for quotes) offer but I dont want to throw out information right now that I can only back-up with a printed out paper that I have in front of me

Again, my bad, the minerality quote is from the FT Blanc Soft - but thats the 3rd side of my tri-fecta :)
 

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