Degassing

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Gritch

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Was about to rack mead into bottles, but reading about degassing, I am not sure I should bottle yet. After stopping fermentation and back sweetening, I left mead in primary for 2 weeks, then racked to carbon, let sit for 2 more weeks. Today I racked to bottling bucket. I haven’t degassed at this point at all. Should I degassing now, leave in the bottling bucket for a while (how long)? Thanks in advance.
 

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Do you get any foaming when you racked, does it taste a little sharp on the tongue, any sense of it tasting carbonated? These are signs of CO2 that needs to be degassed before bottling. It never, rarely, hurts to age a bit longer before bottling.
 

Gritch

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Do you get any foaming when you racked, does it taste a little sharp on the tongue, any sense of it tasting carbonated? These are signs of CO2 that needs to be degassed before bottling. It never, rarely, hurts to age a bit longer before bottling.
No foam at racking, but hose was submerged. A little sharp, yes. No sense of carbonation when tasting. However, poured the last little bit from the carboy into a pint jar; when shaken vigorously, I get considerable foam.
 
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I reracked back into a carboy, going to let it sit a few more weeks.
This will come as a bit of a shock, but replace the word "weeks" with "months".

Kits promise duration from start to bottling in 4 to 8 weeks, and this is works. However -- kits include kieselsol and chitosan (fining agents) and have a strict regimen that must be followed to achieve that goal.

Another "however" -- the wine may be in the bottle, but that doesn't mean it's aged sufficient to taste like wine. Sure, some wines such as Dragon's Blood and Skeeter Pee are designed for quick consumption, but heavy reds and wine-strength meads need more time.

If you're not using a fining agent, most wines are not clear before 4 months. You'll get sediment in the bottle -- although this doesn't hurt anything, it ruins the presentation.
 

Gritch

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This will come as a bit of a shock, but replace the word "weeks" with "months".

Kits promise duration from start to bottling in 4 to 8 weeks, and this is works. However -- kits include kieselsol and chitosan (fining agents) and have a strict regimen that must be followed to achieve that goal.

Another "however" -- the wine may be in the bottle, but that doesn't mean it's aged sufficient to taste like wine. Sure, some wines such as Dragon's Blood and Skeeter Pee are designed for quick consumption, but heavy reds and wine-strength meads need more time.

If you're not using a fining agent, most wines are not clear before 4 months. You'll get sediment in the bottle -- although this doesn't hurt anything, it ruins the presentation.
I used finning agents,
This will come as a bit of a shock, but replace the word "weeks" with "months".

Kits promise duration from start to bottling in 4 to 8 weeks, and this is works. However -- kits include kieselsol and chitosan (fining agents) and have a strict regimen that must be followed to achieve that goal.

Another "however" -- the wine may be in the bottle, but that doesn't mean it's aged sufficient to taste like wine. Sure, some wines such as Dragon's Blood and Skeeter Pee are designed for quick consumption, but heavy reds and wine-strength meads need more time.

If you're not using a fining agent, most wines are not clear before 4 months. You'll get sediment in the bottle -- although this doesn't hurt anything, it ruins the presentation.
 
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Ok, so my mead is bulk aging(about 3 weeks now), should I be adding K-meta periodically? If so, how often, how much? Thanks again.
The rule I use is 1/4 tsp K-meta per 5/6 gallons at each racking, or every 3 months during bulk aging. This is a time-tested rule and it's been proven to produce an end result of 25-35 ppm SO2. I do not do SO2 testing, nor try to fine tune SO2 levels.

In barrels, since water/alcohol evaporate through the wood, I keep that schedule. For carboys, since I'm not opening them, I stretch the additions to 5 or 6 months. So far I've not experienced a problem with that.
 

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