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Most excellent! I read through this thread and it was super helpful. I'm now kinda scared to add "Packet C", but it should be fun!
The only danger with Packet C is if your fermenter is small. If you're using the typical 7.9 gallon fermenter for a 23 liter batch, you're fine. I suggest sprinkling it gently, instead of just dumping it in.

I have 4 posts in progress, detailing various facets of making the FWK. You may find the details useful.
https://wine.bkfazekas.com/wines-in-detail/
The FWK kits come with a packet to be used in starting the yeast. The packet contains yeast nutrient (diammonium phosphate or DAP) and extra fine sugar. The instructions say to make up the yeast mixture 18 to 30 hours before pitching.
A lot of folks have success with GoFerm, but using an overnight starter may make it unnecessary. That is an opinion based upon my limited experience using an overnight starter, not a fact.

I have found that 12-14 hours is sufficient for the starter, starting at 6PM and inoculating at 7AM. I used room temperature (cellar temp 63-66 F) water and kept the starters on the counter with the fermenter. Although I have no proof, I suspect that keeping the starter at the same temperature as the must helps, as it eliminates temperature shock.

BITD, I used yeast energizer with most batches, but haven't used it in years. Given the success of the FWK, I'm not seeing a need for it. However, I plan to start a couple of non-kit batches in the near future -- we'll see if the overnight starter works the same.
 
The only danger with Packet C is if your fermenter is small. If you're using the typical 7.9 gallon fermenter for a 23 liter batch, you're fine. I suggest sprinkling it gently, instead of just dumping it in.
I am using a 7.9 gallon bucket, but there is an awful lot of activity; foam, bubbles and oak chips everywhere. I have just 1 skin pack which has swelled up quite a bit. If I had 2 in there, I think it might overflow. I'll probably add 1/2 of the nutrient packet in the morning and the rest when I get home in the evening. Hopefully this dosing will keep things under control.
 
I'll probably add 1/2 of the nutrient packet in the morning and the rest when I get home in the evening. Hopefully this dosing will keep things under control.
The problem with Pack C is not that it makes the ferment more vigorous -- when adding it, the wine foams up., but will subside.
 
The problem with Pack C is not that it makes the ferment more vigorous -- when adding it, the wine foams up., but will subside.
Good call, Bryan. I added the whole pack this morning and things are definitely calmer tonight. After 2.5 days, SG went from 1.098 to 1.028. Maybe another day before I close the bucket. I have to admit, I was kinda freaking out! All good now...
 
Bucket – You want non colored FOOD GRADE buckets.

Carboy – Glass or plastic vessel used in fermenting beverages.

Primary Fermenter - A bucket or a larger glass or stainless steel vessel.

Must – Freshly pressed fruit juice. First step in wine making.

Hydrometer - An instrument used to measure the specific gravity (or relative density) of liquids.

Specific Gravity(SG) - In winemaking this is a number which tells the amount of sugar content in a must or wine. A common starting SG is around 1.080-1.100, but not always. An common ending 'dry' SG would be around .992-.995.

Racking - To transfer a liquid from one vessel to another. Normally done to remove the wine from the lees. Part of the clearing process.

Campden Tablets - Potassium Metabisulfite in tablet form which is used at the ratio of 1 tablet per gallon when adding to wine. Can be called 'NA-Meta'.

K-Meta – Is Potassium Metabisulfite(see below) Normal usage is 1/8 tsp to 1/4 tsp for 6 gallon recipe in must 24 hours before adding yeast. Add 1/4 tsp for 6 gallons after fermentation for preservation. Use 3 tbls per gallon of water for sanitization of equipment ( AKA Campden tablets in solid form)

NA-Meta - Is Sodium Metabisulfite. Normal usage is 1/8 tsp to 1/4 tsp per 6 gallon recipe in must 24 hours before adding yeast. Add 1/4 tsp for 6 gallons after fermentation for preservation. Use 3 tbls per gallon of water for sanitization of equipment ( AKA Campden tablets in solid form)

Potassium Metabisulfite – Added 24 hour before adding yeast. This is to destroy any wild molds and bacteria that may have been on the fruit. Also added after fermentation to reduce oxidation (which will affect the colour and flavour of the wine). Used in stronger doses with water as an equipment sanitizer.

Potassium Sorbate - Sometimes called "Wine Stabilizer", is added to finished wines before bottling to reduce the possibility of re-fermentation.

Pectic Enzyme – A liquid or powder that is added to crushed fruit to increase juice extraction. Also added to juice prior to fermentation to enhance the clarification process. The powdered form can be stored for a longer time before losing its strength.

Yeast Nutrient - Yeast Nutrient supplies nitrogen to the yeast in the singular form of a phosphate.

Yeast Starter – Method of rehydrating and activating yeast and accustoms it to the must prior to fermentation
Gist starter / Yeast starter

Yeast Energizer - Supplies the wine yeast with much needed nitrogen, but from a wider range of nutrients than just phosphate. Energizer contains over a dozen yeast extractive proteins, along with B1 Vitamin, and di-ammonium phosphate. All are valuable sources of nitrogen. Good to use when must derivative is unlike grapes.

Acid Blend - This is a blend of the primary acids found in fruit. Acid blend can contain any two or three of the primary acids (tartaric acid, citric acid and malic acid) in any quantity. Acid blend can be store bought or self made by the home winemaker.

F-Pak - Flavor Pack. Usually a concentrated juice of the original fruit ingredients or similar. Can also be simple syrup, honey, or other flavorings added once fermentation is complete. Sorbate and K-meta should be added prior to any F-Pak to prevent secondary fermentation.
FPAC, what when why and how?

Fining agent – Organic or inorganic compound added at end of fermentation to clarify and to change colour, odour, flavour and stability.

Benzoate - yeast inhibitor(blueberrys have them naturally)

Lees - The spent yeast cells and fruit solids that accumulate on the bottom of winemaking vessels

Bentonite – Clay additive used before fermentation and after. It provides nucleation sites for the yeast during primary fermentation. It also makes the wine clearer and more stable by removing the protein haze and undesirable particles from a finished wine in a very short period of time.

Fining Agents - Usually bentonite, gelatin or isinglas, which are natural agents that are added to wine to accelerate the settling or clearing process.

Pomace - The solid materials left over from the fruit in winemaking or juicing. Such as the pulp in orange juice or spent fruit in a fruit sack left over after fermentation.
Can I ask a question? This is my second year making wine from fresh grapes and thanks for the great advice last year! I have been reading a few threads and have seen where members have said that you can make a red and a white wine out of the same grapes…. How is that possible?!
 
Can I ask a question? This is my second year making wine from fresh grapes and thanks for the great advice last year! I have been reading a few threads and have seen where members have said that you can make a red and a white wine out of the same grapes…. How is that possible?!
The color comes from the skins so if one presses the grapes and does not let the juice sit on the skins, the wine will not pick up much if any of the color.
 
Can I ask a question? This is my second year making wine from fresh grapes and thanks for the great advice last year! I have been reading a few threads and have seen where members have said that you can make a red and a white wine out of the same grapes…. How is that possible?!
Most wine grapes have white flesh and juice. However, some (called Teinturier) have colored flesh and juice.
 
My grapes are black munaka and concord, plus a few muscadine and scuppernong
You may consider Saignée, which is the French term meaning the grapes are crushed and some of the juice is quickly drawn off. The juice is used to make a white or rose, while the remaining pulp + juice is used to make a heavier red; heavier because the ratio of pulp to juice is higher.
 
You may consider Saignée, which is the French term meaning the grapes are crushed and some of the juice is quickly drawn off. The juice is used to make a white or rose, while the remaining pulp + juice is used to make a heavier red; heavier because the ratio of pulp to juice is higher.
I have a few muscadine and scuppers left i may try this with them. Last week I thawed out a bunch of blueberries i had. After hand crushing, pouring everything into a nylon bag, then putting the nylon bag into my wine press and squeezing out everything I could I ended up with 2 gallons of pure blueberry juice with a brix of 10. I really really wanted 3 gallons of juice (because I had a empty 3 gallon glass carboy) so I added one gallon of water and enough sugar to bring the brix up to 22. I just pitched the yeast today at 1:30
 

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I have a few muscadine and scuppers left i may try this with them. Last week I thawed out a bunch of blueberries i had. After hand crushing, pouring everything into a nylon bag, then putting the nylon bag into my wine press and squeezing out everything I could I ended up with 2 gallons of pure blueberry juice with a brix of 10. I really really wanted 3 gallons of juice (because I had a empty 3 gallon glass carboy) so I added one gallon of water and enough sugar to bring the brix up to 22. I just pitched the yeast today at 1:30
Too make a white or rose wine i should do the same thing, use the nylon bag to keep the skins and seeds out?
 
Too make a white or rose wine i should do the same thing, use the nylon bag to keep the skins and seeds out?
yes. Crush and immediately strain for juice.

I have a few muscadine and scuppers left i may try this with them. Last week I thawed out a bunch of blueberries i had. After hand crushing, pouring everything into a nylon bag, then putting the nylon bag into my wine press and squeezing out everything I could I ended up with 2 gallons of pure blueberry juice with a brix of 10. I really really wanted 3 gallons of juice (because I had a empty 3 gallon glass carboy) so I added one gallon of water and enough sugar to bring the brix up to 22. I just pitched the yeast today at 1:30
While it's normal to make country (fruit) wines by adding water, in your situation you might consider adding another juice to bring the total to 3.5 gallons. You need to start with more juice than the secondary container holds, as you'll lose volume to sediment.

Adding another juice (such as 1.5 gallons of Muscadine or Scuppernong) will make a richer wine. I suspect that the blueberry will overpower the grape, which is a good outcome IMO.
 
yes. Crush and immediately strain for juice.


While it's normal to make country (fruit) wines by adding water, in your situation you might consider adding another juice to bring the total to 3.5 gallons. You need to start with more juice than the secondary container holds, as you'll lose volume to sediment.

Adding another juice (such as 1.5 gallons of Muscadine or Scuppernong) will make a richer wine. I suspect that the blueberry will overpower the grape, which is a good outcome IMO.
I pitched the yeast at 1:30 this afternoon, is it to late to add the muscadine? Would tomorrow morning be to late?
 
I pitched the yeast at 1:30 this afternoon, is it to late to add the muscadine? Would tomorrow morning be to late?
I have some black munka wine that I fermented last week and is in a gallon jug with an airlock on top. I haven’t added any megabit to it yet so it may still be fermenting, can I add some of this?
 
I pitched the yeast at 1:30 this afternoon, is it to late to add the muscadine? Would tomorrow morning be to late?
Nope. Go for it!

I have some black munka wine that I fermented last week and is in a gallon jug with an airlock on top. I haven’t added any megabit to it yet so it may still be fermenting, can I add some of this?
You can blend wines any way you want. Mixing finished wines into new wines is a common thing.

Ideally you want to have your must set prior to fermentation. For many reasons, life doesn't always work out that neatly. Generally speaking, let a wine finish fermenting -- the volume doesn't matter until you move to a secondary container, at which point you want to avoid headspace.

Once the wines are done fermenting, mix 'em as you see fit. Winemaking is a win or lose proposition -- if YOU are happy with the result, you've won. If you're not happy with result? Cook with it. All wines taste alike after being boiled.
 

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