Carboy stoppers

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rodo

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Recently I have seen several posts from people having problems with stoppers in carboys. While I have never pushed a stopper all the way into a carboy I have had a few close calls after which I decided to do something about it.

The problem as I see it is twofold
1 the taper of the stopper is too much
2 there is no ring at the top to prevent over insertion

My solution was to get some #7 stoppers and cut a new taper with less angle and leave a lip at the top using a metal lathe.

When I saw others having the same problems I thought about a way to do this with stuff that a lot of people have access to.

Here are the things you’ll need

#7 drilled stoppers

A way to spin the stopper, a drill press would be great but I’ll demonstrate with a hand drill.
If a hand drill is used you’ll need a way to hold it as you can see I used a bench vise, however I have seen people use long hose clamps and boards or angle iron to do similar things.

A shaft or “mandrel” to hold the stopper, the hole in the stopper is 3/8” so the mandrel needs to be 7/16” about 6” long. If you have trouble finding this use a 7/16’ bolt and cut the head off, be sure to smooth the end that will be exposed as your hand will probably be resting on it.

Sandpaper, a sheet of # 60 grit, a sheet of #220 grit and something flat to wrap the sandpaper around, a block of wood or a file will do nicely.

Once you have the drill secured put the mandrel in the chuck, if you’re using a bolt put the threaded end in chuck. Push the stopper onto the mandrel small end first 2” to 3”. Turn the drill on and lock the trigger, wrap the 60 grit paper around the block of wood and begin sanding the stopper pressing slightly harder on the side of the sanding block that is toward the large end of the stopper, leave about 3/16” of the large end unsanded.


IMG_4061_5_1.JPG

IMG_4072_16_1.JPG
 
photo1 once you have it roughed in use the 220 grit paper to finish

Be sure to have a carboy to do a test fit on
photo 2 shows how far it should go in when its dry.
Photo 3 is the samUse the 220 grit e stopper inserted wet

IMG_4067_11_1.jpg

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Looks like the Universal Carboy Bungs that sell for 95 cents.
 
I have never had a problem with any of the stoppers I have done like this when they are wet the slip right in and do not come out until you pull them out.

In the drawing below on the left is a standard #7 stopper, in the center is the modified stopper, on the right is the modified stopper superimposed over the standard #7 in red.

View attachment C__Auto Cad LT Drawings_Wine stoppers Model (1).PDF
 
I never tried one but I'll garantee it took longer to write about it than it did to do it
Rod
 
redo you're right those are much better ,you should get a patient on that right away then sell the idea to the company that makes the bungs .They could just have molds that are that shape instead of the shapes they have now . Wish you lived close to me i would have you that to all my bungs .
 
These threads are getting crazy. I have 3 cats and they have whiskers, these are designed to know what they can fit in and get out of. If you cant tell when you insert the bung there is a risk of it going in all the way or to far, you might consider buying bungs with whiskers next time!!!
 
These threads are getting crazy. I have 3 cats and they have whiskers, these are designed to know what they can fit in and get out of. If you cant tell when you insert the bung there is a risk of it going in all the way or to far, you might consider buying bungs with whiskers next time!!!

I literally laughed out loud reading your reply... :)
 

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