Blueberry Wine Process

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FunkedOut

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After a couple of 1-3 bottle batches to figure things out, I set out to make a slightly bigger batch.
If you will partake, I plan to lay out my process, in hopes of your critique for improving the next batch.
Naturally, I will have some questions along the way...

Details:
4 gallon batch (Planning on filling a 3 gallon carboy and want to have an extra gallon for top off)
5lbs of blueberries per gallon (20lbs total)
5 campden tablets (K-meta)
6lbs table sugar
2 gallons of spring water
Pectic enzyme
Oak shavings and FT Rouge in the must prior to innoculation
Lalvin 71B yeast
yeast nutrients
 
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The blueberries were found in the frozen section of a local Sams Club.
The label said very little: "Natural Blueberries" with a listed countries of origin, US, Argentina and Chile.
These were the largest blueberries I've ever seen, about the diameter of a quarter.
They were not very sweet either.

I smashed the blueberries 2lbs at a time, in a large bowl, using 1/2 camped tablet (K-meta) per each 2lbs bowl (5 tablets total).
bb.jpg bbsmashed.jpg

The 20lbs of mashed blueberries amounted to about 2.5 gallons of very thick must.
20lbs.jpg

I added 5lbs of table sugar, dissolved in enough water for the must to reach 4.5 gallons.
I measured 18 brix (1.074 SG) with a refractometer, as the must was too thick for a hydrometer.

I let this sit for a few hours, stirring again and measured the same level of sugar at 43*F.
I added another pound of sugar let it sit overnight.
Maybe this is a bit of a cold soak? cold stabilization?
 
I measured 1.086 SG with a hydrometer the next morning. The must thinned out when it warmed up to 63*F.
Expecting 13.5% ABV out of this one.

Using a freshly calibrated Milwaukee MW101 pH meter, I measured a pH of 3.55.
I also titrated a small 5mL sample of the must and measure a TA of only 0.3%.
This is my first time measuring TA so, I suspect something is bogus with that measurement.
Even with a cold soak effect, that is still very low.
I opted to leave well enough alone and not make any acid adjustments.

I added pectic enzyme and let that sit all day.
 
That night, I stirred in 8.75g of FT Rouge tannin, which is the maximum recommended amount, and added lots of (140g) medium toast Hungarian oak shavings.

Rehydrated the 71B yeast with GoFerm Protect, tempered and inoculated the must.
The must level now sits a hair under the 4.75 gallon mark.
pitch.jpg

And now, we wait...
 
Sounds like it's working out pretty well!

The blueberries size and the pH makes me think somehow they bloated the blueberries with extra water somehow. I grow blueberries and blueberries as large as you describe are not normally found in commercial packaging. I have some plants that produce great big quarter size blueberries, but; most commercial growers don't that size blueberry. Your comment about not being very sweet also suggests that they added water somehow.

Setting that aside once you got your pH in range (3.55 is fine) and your SG/Birx in good shape, just be sure your other additives are there, like your Yeast Nutrient, which you listed. I would also suggest that you not go below 5 lbs per gallon if you want a good solid flavor in your wine. Most folks like more fruit flavor in fruit wines than you find in traditional red and white wines.

13.5% ABV is fine and plan on doing at least a little back-sweetening before bottling in 9-12 months. Blueberry wine normally needs a little sweetening up to bring back the flavor.

Your comment about the pH is also interesting because I've been on this forum for over 5 years not and this past summer season was the first time folks started reporting blueberries with pH ranging at or above 3.5. Most times folks end up fighting to raise the pH from 3.00 or lower to help the yeast get started. I've had a couple of batches with a pH significantly below 3.00. They fermented fine but others have had issues. So I suspect a different variety of blueberry is making it's way to stores and markets. That may be good or bad but as long as the wine turns out well... all is well.
 
the first time folks started reporting blueberries with pH ranging at or above 3.5. Most times folks end up fighting to raise the pH from 3.00
I've encountered different varietals of blueberries from different vendors. One variety did have low acidity and high pH that required me to add acid. The other (more typical) variety had low pH that needed correction. Both made good wine in the end, but it means the winemaker needs to be on the ball and can't fall back on a recipe to follow blindly.
 
I've encountered different varietals of blueberries from different vendors. One variety did have low acidity and high pH that required me to add acid. The other (more typical) variety had low pH that needed correction. Both made good wine in the end, but it means the winemaker needs to be on the ball and can't fall back on a recipe to follow blindly.

Exactly, as they keep hybridizing plants this is especially true. Why would they want to reduce the acid in blueberries ? I have no idea since the acidity is one of the great things about them.

Bottom line is that you are correct. Blind adherance to any recipe is not a good thing. SG and pH should always be checked before adding Sugar or Acid/Acid Blend. I played that correction game once and never want to do it again. Especially if you over correct and raise the pH too high.
 
I like using a paint strainer bag or similar mesh bag to hold fruit for primary fermentations. Makes it easy to remove the pulp and any seeds from the must when racking to the secondary.
 
This is my first time going raw (free berry). I usually bag skins on kits too. I need to see what the alternative is all about.
I plan on pouring this all into a paint strainer bag when it comes out of this fermenter.
Then I'll place that strainer bag in a new press I got to get more juice out of the skins.

Been thinking about an 8 week extended maceration. Anyone have experience with EM on blueberries?

Got good signs of fermentation this morning. First half dose of Fermaid K went in with the punch down.
 
This is my first time going raw (free berry). I usually bag skins on kits too. I need to see what the alternative is all about.
I plan on pouring this all into a paint strainer bag when it comes out of this fermenter.
Then I'll place that strainer bag in a new press I got to get more juice out of the skins.

Been thinking about an 8 week extended maceration. Anyone have experience with EM on blueberries?

Got good signs of fermentation this morning. First half dose of Fermaid K went in with the punch down.
Just be careful not to use too fine a bag, or you’ll end up with a bag full of liquid that can’t penetrate the clogged openings of the bag. Have you considered draining / siphoning out the free run while the cap is up, and then pressing the skins / sludge that are left?
 
Regardless of how fine a bag you use (Except for actual cloth like muslin) blueberry seeds are very fine, but; they also settle out well so if you rack after fermentation and once more within the next 3-4 weeks all the seeds should be out of there. Basic paint strainer bag will do the job well enough, then just careful racking the first couple of times.
never had a problem with blueberry seeds or bitterness in 6-7 batches over the past 5 plus years.
 
How do you get more of a real blueberry flavor and aroma from this wine? I am trying to replicate the taste and aroma of Moody Blue, a Canadian bottled sparkling wine. Just not the sparkling part.
 
Flavor is base on the amount and quality of the fruit you use. Aroma is not a strong point of blueberries so what little there is pretty much is blown off during fermentation. A cooler ferment temperature might preserve the aroma that is there but having grown blueberries now for almost 15 years, I've never noticed a particularly strong aroma.

You can add a flavor concentrate as part of back-sweetening but you just need to be sure tjhat the sugar doesn't restart fermentation. Most fruit wines require at least a little back-sweetening to bring out the flavor so you might start with that and no flavor additive. Keep in mind that commercially produced fruit is often picked too early and manipulated to maximize profit. In the case of blueberries - they don't ripen after picking and the size you mentioned is NOT normal for most store bought berries. Frozen fruit is the last source I would use for wine for this reason. I think the figure people are going either cook or otherwise alter the fruit by mixing it with other fruit so the fruit itself is never consumed by itself - which would expose the lower quality of the fruit. Had the same problem with frozen mango chunks from Sam's club.
 
Living in Michgan this time of the year is hard to find anything but frozen fruits. What's your recommendation for anyone shut-in for the winter, but still has the desire to make wine?
 
There are some good suppliers of fruit juices (Concentrated) Just be sure that the juice contains only 100% of the juice type on the label. There are a few out there that add other juices and sugar so you end up paying for sugar (Not an expensive item) and other juices like Apple/Grape/Pear juices which are all much less expensive than juices like Blackberry, Blueberry, Peach, etc.

Some concentrates may contain pulp while others may be somewhat filtered. This became a topic of a discussion when I purchased some juice from one supplier and found it to be much different that I (And others) were led to believe.

Here is a link to that discussion on this forum: NEVER AGAIN ! This is "Black Raspberry" Flavored Concentrate? I don't think so!!!

Here are a couple that others on this site have used:
Coloma
https://colomafrozen.com/brewers-and-vintnersVintner's Harvest
https://www.amazon.com/vintners-harvest-fruit-base/s?k=vintners+harvest+fruit+base(This is just an amazon listing and I'm not suggesting their prices are the best)

I'm sure that there are a few others who can supply excellent juice concentrates. If you read the thread I linked, you can see a couple to stay away from. One issue is that unless you buy a large quantity, many of the commercial companies aren't even going to sell to you. Many deal in 5 gallon containers (4 or more or even a pallet of them, 55 gallon drums and all the way up to tanker trucks. So for the majority of us home wine makers that's way over our needs and capacity to handle. If you have freezer then the best thing is what Raptor 99 posted after I initially posted this comment. Buy in season, freeze and then make wine throughout the year.
 
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This year I made a batch of wine from frozen cherries from Costco and another from 100% tart cherry juice concentrate. I was very disappointed in the bland flavor of the frozen cherries, but the concentrate was good. As @Scooter68 said, frozen fruit is usually of inferior quality. The even worse quality fruit is used to make cheap commercial jam.

I am trying to work with the flow of the seasons. During the spring and summer I am busy in my garden. The late fall and winter is brewing time. Traditionally, that is when brewing took place. We have a farm store nearby that has an annual sale for bulk quantities berries and another for peaches and pears. Since I can't always start a batch when the fresh fruit is ripe, I often sort/wash/freeze it for use later. The fruit that I freeze at peak ripeness is much better than frozen fruit from the grocery store. If you don't have any fruit this time of year, a good quality concentrate is your best bet.
 
I agree @Raptor99, freezing fresh fruit that one can grow is the optimal way of ensuring that you have your own ripened fruit on hand when needed. My wife and I grow Blueberries, Muscadines, Peaches, Pears, Apples and various Citrus trees. We vacuum seal enough fruit every year to produce our own country wines. I just started yesterday a 2 gal. blended batch of blueberries and noble muscadines. 5 lbs of each. Today I pitched the yeast (EC 1118).
I've been wanting to try a blended wine using the blueberries and muscadines for sometime now. Can't wait to see how this comes out.
 
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Looks like this batch was doomed from the start!
The last few small batches I’ve made have all been with frozen fruit.
To me and everyone that’s tried them, have found the wines to be great.

I can’t wait to try this with fresh fruit next time to see the difference.
I’ve always read the recommendation to freeze the fruit first to help break down the flesh structure, so I figured why not just buy it frozen?
Next batch, I’ll make the trip to u-pick farms and get some fresh berries to freeze and process.
That should be top of the heap in terms of fruit quality, no?

If the comercial frozen product is the lowest quality, then the commercial fresh product should be lower than the local farms, no?
If that is the case, then the prices follow suit.
 
The issue is that the fruit flavor, and sugar content is often lower with frozen fruit. The fresh store bought fruit may be fine if you can pick the individual fruit in the case of larger fruit. Their suppliers pick fruit trying to time it to reach peak ripeness AFTER you buy it, because fruit that's at the very peak of ripeness in the store tends to bruise and spoil faster. Even a lot of roadside stands are still buying from the same suppliers but often their product isn't kept as cool so it hits it's peak a little sooner - maybe. Really the two best sources are 1) home grown or 2) orchard stands/pick-you-own. Third would be concentrates since those are usually produced with controls for sugar levels monitored.
Your batch might lack some of the flavor but it still may turn out great. Comparing bottles of roughly the same age but different sources is about the only way to compare fairly.
Don't give up hope - just try to plan ahead more. We all make do with what is available at some point.
 
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