Looks like the perfect vehicle for northern Arizona
Arizona Jeep Project
- Thread starter Kraffty
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It's a learning process for sure. I've made it up to the fender panel, just passenger side. There are going to be some "pick your battles" decisions to make but overall I think it's going well. It's very flat and straight now but I'm absolutely going with the High Build primer sealer once I'm done with the filler to deal with pinholes and some sanding scratches but at this rate that's weeks away. Tomorrow the fender then pull the hood and cowl and start down the driver side.
Boatboy24
No longer a newbie, but still clueless.
Looking great, Mike. I love what you're doing here. Don't know if I mentioned it before, but I owned a '98 Wrangler Sport that I bought new and kept for 13 years. I love seeing these pics. Really impressive work.
Brief history on the Jeep TJ. This model came after the YJ and was sold as a 1997 to 2006 model with actual production starting in 1996. There were approx 125,000 1997 TJs built (2 years) and over 800,000 TJ's in total before becoming the modern JK model. Mine was built in Feb of 1996 and it's VIN number show it was just the 2,333rd TJ produced. This one is as base as it gets, 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual SE model - vs. Jims Sport which had the straight 6 and about twice the HP at about 220 or 240 vs mine at around 120. I think they only came in 3 basic colors, black, green and red.
Don't know whether to call this an update, renovation, restoration or partial rebuild.
Don't know whether to call this an update, renovation, restoration or partial rebuild.
Boatboy24
No longer a newbie, but still clueless.
Is renorestobuildup a word?
DONT KNOW,, DID HE FIND WHO STOLE HIS TIRES WHILE IN HIS GARAGE,,,,,
Dawg
So another milestone reached. It's taken 10 straight long days to do the body work all around. I've used almost 1 gallon of body filler although most of it ended up sanded off and on the ground. I have a glazing compound that still has to be used to touch up pinholes and some scratches but there aren't many of those at this point. I still have to sand/scuff up the windshield frame, roll cage, door bars and cowl but no body work involved in that. Very close to that first coat of primer and that'll be a good indicator of how close I really am. Man, this is like real work. I've got neo-sporin and bandaids on 7 of 10 fingers. Splits, dry cracks, raw spots scratches and cuts are winning. I have to say heavy applications of medicated creams and plastic gloves make quite the fetching look as I try to rehydrate the hands before bed each night.
Boatboy24
No longer a newbie, but still clueless.
Looking good, Mike!
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I've found nothing better than the old fashioned stinky bag balm in the green square can. It will rehydrate and heal your hands like nothing else.
Nice work on the jeep. I've used 2 coats of primer before. First coat to be able to see what still needed work. Glazing putty would hopefully do it then a second coat to even it out for paint. On a really particular job, 2 or 3 colors of primer in small guns. Layers showed when you had it filled after block sanding.
I would really get tired of sanding!!
Nice work on the jeep. I've used 2 coats of primer before. First coat to be able to see what still needed work. Glazing putty would hopefully do it then a second coat to even it out for paint. On a really particular job, 2 or 3 colors of primer in small guns. Layers showed when you had it filled after block sanding.
I would really get tired of sanding!!
jswordy
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Looks great! And just think, you started with a basically straight machine. No body work to do on it, like pull out dents, etc. I have seen guys gripe and gripe on car forums about how their body guy is taking soooo long. Well as you now see, there's a reason! You'll be much happier with it now that you have done the prep, really. And you're probably getting pretty good at it, now that you are about done doing it. That's how it works for me with stuff, anyway.
Thanks Jim. I'm thinking that having used the glaze and then block sanding with 400 grit I may not end up having to do the high build. It really is smooth as glass now almost everywhere. The windshield frame was really a PIA with all the intricate shapes, really glad most of the body had flat panels. Roll cage and cowl left then primer if weather permits, think we're heading into a couple of cold weeks here so maybe just keep nit-picking and fine tuning till it warms.
jswordy
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Any primer/surfacer you use will build up, the high-build just does it faster. They are all high solids content, except the spray bombs. The lighter your color, the less you have to worry about imperfections showing up. I have seen some really cool looking grays out there riding around now.
learning this is very true...
Hopefully this link will work. I plan on spraying a couple of coats of primer today. Just have to hang plastic sheeting to the garage walls and mask off the wheel wells and tires. I'll make the decision of when the paint goes on after seeing how it looks once primer goes on, could be Monday or next weekend. Getting Closer!
Sitting back and having a beer or 4 and enjoying my handiwork. Think I'm good with the one coat of primer though I'm probably going to give it a light wet sanding before actual paint later in the week.
100 days or roughly 500 hours of labor complete. Seat covers, decals, hood lift assist and support on order but other than tires I'm done for now. First time working on exhaust, suspensions, spray on bed liner, body work, masking, priming, painting and installing a windshield and I'd consider it successful. Gave it a tune up this morning and drove it out (on-road only until the paint cures completely) and it feels great. I haven't run the final numbers yet but I don't think I'm not far off my original budget.
Boatboy24
No longer a newbie, but still clueless.
I could side hustle as a "pink Jeep Tours" driver. Too late now.....
