Italian floor corker incompatible with certain bottle finishes?

[Farmer Grey]

Vertical square tubing frame is plumb, correctly perpendicular with the spring-loaded bottle tray, head is just welded on crooked.

 

[Rocky]

If you just purchased the corker, I would try to take it back to the seller and ask for an exchange. If this does not work, I would try to "adjust" it.

It is not off by that much. Before I cut and welded it, you might consider a "Charles Atlas" adjustment, like with a large pipe (e.g. 24") wrench, something with a lot of leverage. I would remove the top plate, protect the metal with thin strips of wood, grip the whole head and try to bend it to level. From the upper photo, it only looks like a matter of 1/32" to 1/16" and it should be good to go.

I should add that I was a Manufacturing Engineer for a couple of companies that made printers, banking machines and copiers. Two of the essential tools on the assembly line were a medium weight ball peen hammer and a pry bar, particularly when a weldment was involved (and the frames of the machines were always weldments). They are welded in a jig, but many factors such as cooling rate, could change the dimensions after welding.

 

[Farmer Grey]

If you just purchased the corker, I would try to take it back to the seller and ask for an exchange. If this does not work, I would try to "adjust" it.

It is not off by that much. Before I cut and welded it, you might consider a "Charles Atlas" adjustment, like with a large pipe (e.g. 24") wrench, something with a lot of leverage. I would remove the top plate, protect the metal with thin strips of wood, grip the whole head and try to bend it to level. From the upper photo, it only looks like a matter of 1/32" to 1/16" and it should be good to go.

I should add that I was a Manufacturing Engineer for a couple of companies that made printers, banking machines and copiers. Two of the essential tools on the assembly line were a medium weight ball peen hammer and a pry bar, particularly when a weldment was involved (and the frames of the machines were always weldments). They are welded in a jig, but many factors such as cooling rate, could change the dimensions after welding.

I purchased it in 2020, unfortunately. The little bit of use that I put to it was so undemanding that I did not notice the defect while corking the couple of cases with #8s.

If I try to tweak it, I'm concerned that I would bend the tubing, which would take the iris away from plumb over the bottle tray. As it sits, the iris is plumb over the bottle tray, just skewed. The other possible point of flex is in the sheet metal of the head itself. Would that risk affecting how the brass jaws operate?

It looks like the square tubing is welded to the underside of head with two beads of weld per tube. That is, each tube is only welded on two of its four sides. If I cut one weld on each of the tubes with a fiber disk on the angle grinder and then give the head just a *hair* of a lift, using the opposite weld as the hinge, I can probably tack it back into place again. Probably. Maybe. I would prefer to have someone with more experience perform that surgery, however, as my welds are hit-or-miss. Sometimes great! But with thinner stuff, sometimes I just burn it up.