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old thread, but perhaps you have some numbers of TA drop/pH rise after cold stabilization? anyone can share?

if the pH meter is new, you need to properly calibrate it after per-conditioning, as per pH meter instructions. I had to run calibration twice when I got a new probe, then results came in reasonable. You can also make a saturated solution of creme of tartar ( available from a grocery store)...

thanks!!! much appreciate you reply. I usually do 100lb at the time, so no wonder I can't get must to the peak temp in a cool basement :-)

great summary, thank you. in my basement must temperature never got higher than 28C at peak. wonder what temperature you inoculate the must at? do you heat the must during the first few days of AF so it spikes over 30C?

when you say 2g/L oak, you mean volume of must or finished wine?

John, usual Meta spray in and out. I haven't noticed any spoilage on then surface, there was not any suspicious smell either.

Thank you for your input Bart - I wish it was that obvious :-). wine spent ~3month between rackings. I had 2oz of med toasted oak beans in the carboy. I chilled wine after ML, so wine was free of sediment. I don't fine wine - after chilling and few racking it is clear enough. Last year I tried...

hi, since the topic covers red's color I'd ask a question. I made Syrah last year, which turned up nice and inky dark, however between 2nd and 3rd racking I lost most of the color. I did not get much splashing during the racking, which was suggested (web search) as a requirement for color...