Zinfandel: how do you prefer to oak it?

I'm ordering about 100 lbs of Zinfandel from Harford Vineyards this fall, and since I need to order some new Sodium Hydroxide solution (since mine has lost it's punch) I'm thinking of ordering oak for my Fall grape batches. The two white juice buckets don't need any oak (Pinot Grigio and White Zin), but I'm ordering some Lanza Zin grapes and something "red" locally, either Noriet, Cab Franc or maybe Regent.

So most important to me, how would you oak a Zinfandel? I've heard not to over oak since you want the fruity and spicy flavors to dominate. If you've made a California Zin in the past, how have you oaked it and with age how do you feel it turned out? Would you do it the same, would you cut it back or would you add a bunch more oak?

Thanks in advance of any responses. Give me something to think about, then I won't post so many posts here, since I'm so deep in thought considering your answers.

I do a 50/50 blend of American and French oak.

When mine's ready, it'll go in the Vadai along with some American wine stix, so it'll be Hungarian/American.

I've had commercial zins with what seemed like no oak, and some with heavy oak. All were enjoyable. You'll have enough for about 6 gallons - split it up and go heavy on one and extra light on the other. You may end up with two wines that you like for different reasons. If not, blend them.

Oaky, please define in your mind, the amount of oz of oak per gallon (or six gallons) to start with. I realize I need to taste it as it goes along, but I need a starting point as reference. You can define a low end and a high end, and maybe I'll try out what Boatboy Jim said since I have a ton of 3 gallon carboys (at least 5 now not in use, yet).

I've been looking at chips for the primary and anything from cubes to spirals to these new "balls" that last so long, but I'm still not planning to get a barrel just yet. I need a better SO2 testing solution before then. And right now I'm downright poor monetarily, but blessed with other things, just can't make wine with them.

I use cubes and 2-3 oz per 6 gallons is where I start. Give 'em 6+ weeks, tasting along the way, as you said. I like the French Oak cubes from MoreWine.

I like the oak spirals, Easy to use, 1 spiral per 6 gal for a light oak flavor, 2 for a heavy flavor. I use medium toast American oak.

I like my wines oaky, especially a nice hearty Zin. My preference is 4oz of med toast Hungarian Oak Beans.

For what it is worth, this all is really a matter of taste. There is no hard, fast rule that says that you even need to add oak at all.

If you do like oak in your wine, try starting with 2oz. Give it 6 weeks or so for extraction. Then taste, and if you want more oak, add another 2 oz.

So Craig (ceeaton) since you're in the learning/trial mode, Jim's suggestion of a split with 2 different approaches would provide you with a bounty of info to work with. As he said, you can always simply blend them back together but you will have at least 2 sets of results for future installments!

I made Zinfandel from Harford in 2014, and used a light hand with the oak.

Also to consider, whether you want to MLF. I have heard a few folks say no, but I did with mine and it turned out well.

Floandgary said:

So Craig (ceeaton) since you're in the learning/trial mode, Jim's suggestion of a split with 2 different approaches would provide you with a bounty of info to work with. As he said, you can always simply blend them back together but you will have at least 2 sets of results for future installments!

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I think that is a great idea, especially since I have so many 3 gallon glass carboys all of a sudden (a wine making friend moved and didn't want to move the carboys, so he gave them to me). I may also do that with my Dornfelder batch since I'm on the fence as whether or not to add more oak. I have 8 gallons, I could bottle 4 or 5 gallons and up the oak on the remainder.

heatherd said:

I made Zinfandel from Harford in 2014, and used a light hand with the oak.

Also to consider, whether you want to MLF. I have heard a few folks say no, but I did with mine and it turned out well.

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Plan on an MLF, already have a yeast (AMH) and MLB (CH16) at home and ready to use.

And JohnT, your right, it's a matter of my tastes. If I go too light, I can up it next time I make it. If I go to heavy I'll give it all to @jgmann67 , since he likes his oak.

ceeaton said:

...Plan on an MLF, already have a yeast (AMH)...

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Every time I hear that yeast mentioned, I think of Seinfeld...

I did a split oaking on my Chardonnay. ((2) 3 gallon batches) I'm quite happy with both, but it gave me some ideas of where to find a middle ground even though I actually think one is getting close to exactly what I want.

There is a lot of factors that can influence the type and size of oak that you use. A number of years ago, I wrote an article about it. Here is the link. Perhaps this might help your decisions...

http://www.winemakingtalk.com/take-on-oak.html

John t,
Perhaps you can answer a question for me. I have read that cubes take two months to 12 months to work. However, kit wines that include cubes only say to leave them in for 2 weeks. Do you know if there is a difference in the cubes in kit winds or is there some other reason to only leave them in for two weeks?

No reason to take them out that soon, unless you think it is Oakes enough. Generally use 2-5 oz of cubes per carbon. I take them out around the 2-3D racking.

Norton said:

John t,
Perhaps you can answer a question for me. I have read that cubes take two months to 12 months to work. However, kit wines that include cubes only say to leave them in for 2 weeks. Do you know if there is a difference in the cubes in kit winds or is there some other reason to only leave them in for two weeks?

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I would think that the cubes in kits are the same.

A lot depends on what you are trying to extract from the cubes and also the toast/type of oak you are dealing with. For myself, I like a medium toast Hungarian oak and have found that between 6 to 8 weeks will extract most of what the oak has to offer. Keep in mind that I am targeting the caramelization layer that sits deeper in the wood. If you are going for a pure "toasted wood" characteristic, you will not need as much exposure.

Oaky, the plan at this point is as follows. A couple of ounces of French oak chips in the primary for some sacrificial tannins (not using FT Rouge for a change). Will split the batch, hoping for 8 gallons (108 lbs of fruit + 2 quarts acidulated water), so will end up with a 3 and 5 gallon carboy. One will get 8 French Xoakers M+ (the three gallon one), the other will get a soon to be determined amount of American M+ cubes. After a few months on the 5 gallon carboy, may add more. If the literature on the Xoakers is correct, their useful life is 12 months. Imagine that, me aging a wine for over a year, damn, miracles do happen.

Another option, Craig: I'm enjoying a bourbon barrel aged Zin tonight. Maybe you should soak some cubes in some good bourbon first. ::

Boatboy24 said:

Another option, Craig: I'm enjoying a bourbon barrel aged Zin tonight. Maybe you should soak some cubes in some good bourbon first. ::

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That is an option, but I never really developed a palate for bourbon whiskey. I do enjoy it occasionally, usually as a shot with my beer at the end of a weekend night. Goes really well with an ultra hoppy beer (thinking Founders IPA). My Dad loved his bourbon/whiskey. Wild Turkey was his favorite. Also remember a lot of Old Grandad empties in the recycling bin.