DIY Stir Plate

This weekend I plan to start a batch of Peach Mango wine.

But, I though I would start a yeast culture first. But, I didn't have a stir plate.

The rare earth magnet is glued on with epoxy. Can't wait for it to dry so I can try it out.

No offence - but someone else has just posted the same idea

http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49438&highlight=stir+plate

vacuumpumpman said:

No offence - but someone else has just posted the same idea

http://www.winemakingtalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49438&highlight=stir+plate

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No offense taken.

I guess it's my fault for not saying that I had inspiration. I didn't mean to come across as if I had invented this myself. I watched a few DIY videos and went from there.

I was just being a little proud of my contraption.

Quite a nice job, in fact. Good work!

very nice by the way !

Looking forward to seeing the end results and pics after the epoxy dries

Looks like some tweaking is in order. The fan won't run without a me giving it a startup spin.. It seems I used a bad fan. I'll have to dig around for a *better* one.

Oh well, the journey begins.

vacuumpumpman said:

very nice by the way !

Looking forward to seeing the end results and pics after the epoxy dries

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Works great once it starts up. I have to open the lid and tilt the beaker to give it a spin to get it going. The fan is on it's last leg and I didn't know it.

How does that stir?

dralarms said:

How does that stir?

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There is a rare earth magnet glued to the fan. Put a a magnetic stir stick in the beaker. The magnet in the fan grabs the stir stick through the glass. When the fan spins, the stir stick inside the beaker spins.

Oic, why?

dralarms said:

Oic, why?

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Yeast culturing.

But yeast starters are typically used more in brewing than wine making, aren't they ? Brewers often use liquid yeasts and they may need to produce a larger culture before they pitch the yeast when they have five or six gallons of wort. Wine yeasts , I think, tend to be dry yeasts and there are enough active cells in any pack to inoculate 5 or 6 gallons of must, although there are certainly folk who choose liquid ale and lager yeasts to inoculate meads and ciders. Which is not to say that a stir plate will do any harm. It won't. And not to say that your plate certainly looks good. It does.

BernardSmith said:

But yeast starters are typically used more in brewing than wine making, aren't they ? Brewers often use liquid yeasts and they may need to produce a larger culture before they pitch the yeast when they have five or six gallons of wort. Wine yeasts , I think, tend to be dry yeasts and there are enough active cells in any pack to inoculate 5 or 6 gallons of must, although there are certainly folk who choose liquid ale and lager yeasts to inoculate meads and ciders. Which is not to say that a stir plate will do any harm. It won't. And not to say that your plate certainly looks good. It does.

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Not really sure if the value, if any. At this point, I'm just experimenting. Plus, I like tinkering around. Not that I really need it, but yesterday I made a carboy cleaner from a bucket, lid, piece of PVC, coupling and a submersible pump.

So perhaps I can tap into your "skill set" - and I ask this here 'coz this may be of interest to others. I have some plastic BB carboys (3, and 5 and 6 gallon) but none are ported. I would love to use some of these as bottling buckets. Is there a simple and effective method of drilling a hole towards the bottom of such a carboy (to insert a spigot) that prevents the drill from wandering when you do not have a milling machine and no obvious effective way to clamp the carboy either vertically or horizontally? Thanks.

BernardSmith said:

Is there a simple and effective method of drilling a hole towards the bottom of such a carboy (to insert a spigot) that prevents the drill from wandering when you do not have a milling machine and no obvious effective way to clamp the carboy either vertically or horizontally? Thanks.

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The typical hole bit. Drill a pilot hole. That pilot hole is used to steady the hole drill bit (center bit) as the collar cuts out the larger hole.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Vermont-American-Carbon-Hole-Saw-Set-With-Mandrel-5-Piece-18398/202256379

richmke said:

The typical hole bit. Drill a pilot hole. That pilot hole is used to steady the hole drill bit (center bit) as the collar cuts out the larger hole.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Vermont-American-Carbon-Hole-Saw-Set-With-Mandrel-5-Piece-18398/202256379

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No problem... but what inhibits the drill from wandering when you are drilling a pilot hole? I have heard that the secret is to cover the area you are drilling with painters masking tape ... but again.. how would that be effective if I am drilling into a container that is round, hollow, not fixed to the table, is being pushed by the drill and which at best is being held in one hand...and which I am drilling into the air - as I cannot think of any way to put any piece of wood, for example, behind the wall I am drilling into... In short a recipe for a drilling disaster, I would think.. but then I don't have the knowledge to know how best to keep everything fixed and firm and suitably immobilized.

BernardSmith said:

I have heard that the secret is to cover the area you are drilling with painters masking tape

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That works because the tape is easily drilled into, and then keeps the drill bit from wandering.

You can also use progressively larger drill bits. Start with a really small drill bit. That won't wander much. Once you have a small hole, a larger drill bit will seat into the hole. Repeat until the pilot hole is a little smaller than the drill bit for the hole saw.

OK. Makes good sense but how would you keep the carboy from moving? I am thinking about putting it on its side , nose inside a milk crate , the crate pressed against a wall but the force of the drill will surely be far greater than any force my hand or knee can exert.. What is the secret to immobilizing the carboy itself?

We are talking about a thin plastic carboy, right? I'd just put it on its side, hold it between my knees, and drill. The only net force on the carboy will be downward (and the floor, obviously, will counteract that). The tiny torque from the drill will be countered by your knees. There will be no net force in any other direction.

I'm guessing you are going to cut the top of so you can put a backing nut and washer on the spigot?