Wine Making & Grape Growing Forum > Wine Making > Beginners Wine Making Forum > Absolutely necessary to use campden tablets?

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Old 08-03-2009, 02:29 PM   #1
Tall Grass
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I'm mixing up a batch of welchs concentrate tonight but with the addition of half-kilo of raisins (in the freezer right now.) When I thaw them out I'll be dumping boiling water onto them in the primary bucket... shouldn't the boiling water do what campden tablets do to kill bacteria/fungus/etc ?

I don't have any tablets right now and wondering if I can get away with it... I have the yeast starter going right now so it won't be long after adding the pectic enzyme that I'll be able to start the primary fermentation.



 
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:49 PM   #2
St Allie
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That should be fine.. a lot of the old recipes used boiling water over the fruit to kill off the bugs.. I used to do it that way when I first started.. never had a wine go bad on me due to wild yeasts or anything. Just make sure everything is scrupulously clean.

Allie


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Primary;Grapefruit
Secondary;Merlot
Bulk stored;grapefruit, strawberry guava, cider, apple
Bottling;Cider

Reason: spelling

 
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tall Grass View Post
I'm mixing up a batch of welchs concentrate tonight but with the addition of half-kilo of raisins (in the freezer right now.) When I thaw them out I'll be dumping boiling water onto them in the primary bucket... shouldn't the boiling water do what campden tablets do to kill bacteria/fungus/etc ?

I don't have any tablets right now and wondering if I can get away with it... I have the yeast starter going right now so it won't be long after adding the pectic enzyme that I'll be able to start the primary fermentation.
Just remember once you add the pectic enzyme you waity 12-24 hours before adding your yeast.
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Old 08-03-2009, 05:08 PM   #4
Wade E
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I would wait 12 hours to add the pectic enzyme as it doesnt work great in very very warm conditions, then add the yeast after another 12 hours.
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:16 PM   #5
Tall Grass
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Thanks guys, getting things put together. Must is still a bit hot, 120F.... probably a few hours before it gets down into the lower 90's/upper 80's

 
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:36 PM   #6
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Why is the must still @ 120*?
To clean those 1.5 ltr try PBW or oxy clean
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:47 PM   #7
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well, I just boiled up the water and dumped in the sugar... poured it over the 500g of raisins that I rehydrated/froze last night & today. (this is a 10L batch of wine.. No idea if 500g of raisins is appropriate ... just wingin it here.)

 
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:51 PM   #8
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Oh I forgot you had those raisins.
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by St Allie View Post
That should be fine.. a lot of the old recipes used boiling water over the fruit to kill off the bugs.. I used to do it that way when I first started.. never had a wine go bad on me due to wild yeasts or anything. Just make sure everything is scrupulously clean.

Allie
Boiling water will surely kill any yeast/fungi/bacteria that are present
in the must. At least that is what I thought. And then again there is airborn yeast and bacteria.

When I had to toss 30 liter dandelion must which was made by pouring boiling water over the dandelions, I wished I had used sulphite:

http://wijnmaker.blogspot.com/2008/0...ted-guest.html

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Old 08-03-2009, 11:15 PM   #10
Tall Grass
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Quote:
When I had to toss 30 liter dandelion must which was made by pouring boiling water over the dandelions, I wished I had used sulphite:
Oy... well, at least my exposure in this case is limited to 10L I suppose within a day or two we'll find out if I got lucky. Next time I will surely apply sulphites before messing around...... just feeling a little lazy and not wanting to go out and buy a package of tablets.

(OMG, reading your blog about the dandelions is very saddening and terrifying at the same time lol.)




 
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