Propagating Norton Grapes

I started with about 12 norton bare roots 8 years ago. When pruning in the spring, I choose the most promising prunings, and propagate. I've increased the size ov my vineyard to right at 50 vines since then, just by rooting cuttings. I have had best luck with what are called "hammer" cuttings, and dip in rooting enzyme and keep indoors till they are doing well, then heel them in the first winter and plant in spring. I have had years when I've had better than 50% growth from cuttings. Just lucky I guess!

I'm really curious. Please give more details.

marquettematt said:

I'm really curious. Please give more details.

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I guess your asking me, Matt?! like I said, select the prunings carefully. The "hammer" prunings are what take off the best....more stored energy I presume. I just dampen the hammer end, dip in rooting powder, and plant in potting soil. Keep damp and harden off when growing well. I usually move them outdoors in a 50/50 sun/shade area for the rest of the growing season, increasing the pot size by about july. (I start in 4 in. peat pots, then just plant the whole pot to increase the pot size. By fall they are about a foot tall, and I heel them into a loamy spot in my garden for winter. Cover with wire to keep the rabbits from eating them all off, then when the buds are setting, I pull them out and plant in the vinyard, with grow tubes and stakes. Like I said, maybe I'm just lucky, but I have had pretty fair luck just rooting them!

Yes treesaver. You talk about planting in fall so is it safe to assume that you live in the south? Do you use a heating mat/coils? When do you take the cuttings? How long does it your cuttings to generate roots?

Hello again Matt. I live in NE Ks, about 30 mi from Ne. I said I heel in the propagated plants for overwintering. I have kept them over winter in a garage (non heated) and has worked just fine. While I have planted some in the fall, I much prefer to plant in the spring. I do not use a heating coil, just keep indoors for starting the new plants. I generally prune in late Feb or Mar, and select my cuttings to propagate. They usually start to bud and bud break by a month to six weeks, but I watch for roots to start pushing through the peat pots. Keep moist, and when I get quite a few roots showing, I replant in bigger plastic pots, planting peat pot and all. Hope this helps, Lee

I'm attempting this (not with Norton though) in late Feb. I figure if its a flop - its a flop but I have nothing to lose. Great input with the peat pots. Tractor Supply has Cow Pots (yes made from cow poop) on sale for .99 cents (12 - pint size) that I bought just for this endeavor. I really hope I'm half as successful!

Thanks treesaver. Norton is one of the most difficult varieties to propagate from dormant cuttings. I don't believe in luck in this matter. I'm just giving a hard look at your procedure to see what gives you an edge

I also noticed that my success rate went up when going more to the "hammer" cuttings. Also, I try to select prunings that have the nodules closer together (where the buds come out of) seems to help also. Ironically, I was wanting to increase the size of my cataba vines, and had rather poor success this year on those! Maybe not luck.....sign of the moon?

What is a "hammer" cutting?

I'll see if I can describe it! When you have a shoot off a stem, and you would cut just below and just above the shoot, then trim your 3-4 buds on the stem. It looks like a mallet, hence "hammer" cutting. If I knew how to post a pic, it would save a lot of typing!

I got it. I've made such cuttings before. Didn't know there was a name.

Pic of a hammer cutting

Yes, thank you Stressbaby!

Interesting, treesaver. When you said hammer cuttings, I just thought you meant bull canes. I'll have to try this.